December 20, 2015

Boano fork kit

For a long time I was thinking to pull the trigger on serious fork modification.

Option #1
Few tuners offer a complete service, inc. springs, valving and oil, at the cost around 450$ (+ shipping). However, all of them still insist that doesn't matter what, it will still stay with the limited adjustability of the Olle fork and will never be suitable for racing.

Option #2
To get a RR fork. This option require the RR triple clamp (with the XT stem pressed into the lower clamp), shorter spring and a matching valving. Easily 1,500$ work.

Option #3
Boano racing from Itally offer limited number of 45mm fork kit, ready to go at the cost of 970 Euro (1080$ at the time), inc. DHL shipping to the US.

As Boano is a well known racing shop for Beta, without getting too much of details beyond the limited info they have on the web site, I decided to go for it.

Kit contain:
- 45mm Marzocchi OC fork (Shiver), with 30mm shortened travel, 4.5 spring installed (I understood that than can provide 4.8 spring if needed)
- Boano red anodized matching triple clamp
- XT stem pressed into the lower clamp
- 2 Wheel spacers
- Front axle and nut

Everything look very good, very high quality, perfectly packed.
Installation was as straight forward as it can be.
- Remove front wheel, caliper, front fender, fork guards, handlebar, odometer and lights.
- Remove old triple clamp
- Remove and reuse lower bearing or install a new one
- Install new triple clamp
- Install new fork
- Install caliper, front fender, fork guards, handlebar, odometer and lights
- Replace front wheel spacers with the new one
- Install front wheel
- Torque triple clamp (Boano does not give any info with the fork so I used same torque as the XT as the triple clamp look very much alike. 17nm and 12nm)
- Check free play and adjust

On the garage floor the fork feels very stiff. Actually too much for my liking. Than I checked clickers setting and one of them was almost all the way closed. In order to simulate the Olle fork as much as possible to start with, I went 5 clicks close from all out open.

I wend out riding with this setup, bearing in mind that some break in time is required.

I have to say that I like it from the 1st moment. All the vague feel of the Olle fork disappeared completely. The front end is firm, give nice feedback of whats going on with the front wheel, but at the same time keeps good plushness over rocks and choppy terrain.

Heads-on with whoops was no problem anymore. Bike keep nice line without bouncing around.
Same on rocky single track, when the super fast rebound of the Olle kept sending me off trail once in a while, all gone. Bike keep track straight and firm.

And all this positive feels comes without adjusting anything yet. Bottom line? I'm happy.

December 11, 2015


I found this table in one of the forums, tried it and like it very much. Way better than the too rich std. setting that take std. condtion only without any compensation of altitude or temperature.

The N1EK needle is a std. KTM needle and any dealer can get it to you for less than 15$.

Enjoy. (click on the image to enlarge)

December 9, 2015

2015 fan tabs service bulletin - thanks to Ron Smith!

Click on the image to enlarge.
Pay attention to the hand written note in the last page!




Ignition map switch installation (English / Spanish) - Wirtten by Motomecanica Trujillo

Dual Ignition Map for XTrainer. (DIY)

After receiving several requests by private installation on dual map ignition (CDI), we created this tutorial or DIY (Do It Yourself) for all to enjoy this magnificent double quality of Beta xtrainer. Without great knowledge and with only a screwdriver and of course, the switch, that you can find in the Beta Power Parts catalog.

Doble Mapa de Encendido para XTrainer. (Hazlo tú mismo)

Tras recibir varias peticiones por privado sobre la instalación del doble mapa de encendido (CDI), hemos creado este tutorial o DIY (Hazlo tú mismo en inglés) para que todos puedan disfrutar de esta doble cualidad de la magnífica Beta XTrainer. Sin necesidad de grandes conocimientos y con tan solo un destornillador y por supuesto, el interruptor, que puedes encontrar en el catálogo Beta Power Parts.

1. The first step, release the left number plate
    En primer lugar retiramos la tapa lateral izquierda.



2. Locate the CDI unit. (red box)
    Localizar la unidad CDI. (cuadrado rojo) 

  3. Locate the yellow/red wire that get out of unit CDI. 
    Localizar el cable amarillo-rojo que sale de la unidad. 

4. Unplug

 5. To continue we take and present the switch (disposable in Beta Power Parts catalogue) that it will activate the dual ignition function.
   A continuación cogemos y presentamos el interruptor que activará la función doble mapa de encendido y que está presente en el catálogo Beta Power Parts.

 6. Plug the green wire to the wire to exit of CDI and black wire with the opposite wire to continue with the electrical installed
    Conectamos el cable al saliente del CDI y el negro al que continúa con el resto del sistema eléctrico. 


7. Install the switch's wire over the air box in front direction
   Colocación del cable del interruptor por encima de la caja de filtro.

8. Pass behind the chassis. It is emphasized that the measure is very fair and it's very important the perfect placement of the switch cable
Pasarlo por detrás del chasis. Hay que recalcar que la medida es muy justa y es muy importante el perfecto posicionamiento del cable del interruptor.

9. Screw the dual map switch to the ascend cooling system tube and ¡congratulations! we have the bike in order to use and enjoy
Atornillamos el interruptor de doble encendido al tubo ascendente del sistema de refrigeración y ¡felicidades! ya tenemos la moto lista para usar y disfrutar.

October 28, 2015

Making the throttle light as it should be

One of the things I didnt like on the Xtrainer is the hard throttle pull.
In normal riding condition its not so bad, but when negotiating super technical obstacles or when you need the last bit of traction, precise throttle control is required and the hard pull won't help.

Trying to understand the source of the problem, I tried first to re-route the throttle cable. Didn't help any, even when (for the sake of the test) I had it completely straight.

Taking routing out of the question I have been left with one option only - the TPS lever return spring!

Compering to the buttery smooth any EU 2S bike with Domino throttle, the Xtrainer (and starting in  2016, the 250/300 RR's as well) equipped with a different version of the Keihin PWK carburetor. This version have a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) installed, together with a leading arm which is spring pre-loaded forcing the TPS arm against the slide to eliminate hanging.
The problem is that Keihin left the same PWK spring in place, and the hard pull caused by the added resistance of both springs together.

9$ later, I bought another PWK spring and trimmed about 1/3 of the length. Install it back in (trimmed side up) and VOILA! smooth and easy as it should be :)

Now I got it right!
I did a custom made throttle springs, softer than the original and throttle pull went to where it should be. Got some extra if some interested! :)

October 1, 2015

Parts parts parts...

OEM replacement parts, compatible with other manufacturers

Nissin front brake lever
It's same as older models of Honda. Include CR80/85 98-07, CR125/250 84-07, CRF150/230 04-07, CRF250-450 02-06, CR250/400R 96-03, XR650R 00-04

Brembo clutch lever
Basically it's a the same as KTM Brembo clutch lever from any year. 

Rear LED light
Same as CRFX tail light. Just need to wire up the old connector.

Spark plug
NGK BPR7EIX is a direct replacement for the OEM / Beta only cat. number.


Those are compatible with zillion jap bikes. Just to name few

Front EBC Sinter pads MXS185
  • Honda CR125R / CR250R 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007

  • Honda CRF230 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011

  • Honda CRF250R/X 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011

  • Honda CRF450R/X 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011

  • Honda XR600R 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000

Rear EBC Sinter pads MXS367
  • Kawasaki KX250F 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011

  • Kawasaki KLX450F 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011

  • Kawasaki KX450F 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011

  • Suzuki RM-Z250 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011

  • Suzuki RM-Z450 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011

  • Yamaha YZ125 / YZ250 / YZ250F / YZ450F 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011

  • Yamaha WR250F / WR450F 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011

September 30, 2015

Power! More is better!

Last week, riding some extreme trails in Couger Buttes in the SoCal high desert, I was not too happy.
The power was just not enough for what I wanted. I wanted more off idle so it will help me to lift the front to pivot turns or to challenge rocks with zero approach. I want some more in the middle so I can lift the front over obstacles easier. I want more revs so I can use more of each gear and to avoid going flat in long hills. Basically I want more everywhere!

For many years I have been riding KTM 300 which I thought have the best engine in the business. Last July I had the chance to try 300RR and my jaws dropped! Even better than the already perfect KTM engine? I was sure it was impossible!

So buying the Xtrainer which basically has a tuned down RR300 engine would give even better low end, at least that was my expectation. This is why I was disappointed a bit from this "nummy" engine.

1st thing to do was to wind out the power valve adjuster. That helped some in the middle as the bike picks up RPM's faster. Still sleepy low end.

2nd I removed the power valve spacer which effects the overall volume of the pipe.
Good results, the bottom end woke up some! All you need for this small mod is 4 M5 screws 10mm shorter and 1 minute of your time.

But I wanted more! :)

I borrowed from a friend an FMF Gnarly pipe to try. The good news was that it bolts right up. Perfect clearance everywhere from the frame, cooling houses and shock.
The great news was that it was just it! The bike picked up horses everywhere from bottom end to very nice over rev. It's not RR yet but it's just perfect for this bike and actually I winded back the power valve adjuster almost a complete turn to calm it down a bit.
Roll on drag race from 2nd gear against 250RR and they are bike to bike up to par without any problems.

One important word for anyone that want to use this pipe and does not have experience with 300's - Buy a slow throttle like the G2 Dirt tamer to get better control and secondly, wind the power valve adjuster at least 2 turn in from flush.

 Last but not least, I want to thank Dave from Get Dirty Beta dealership in Morongo Valley CA. Great guy, great rider and excellent dealership!
He can fix you with any Beta item you can think of and said to be cheaper than direct purchase from Beta USA site.

And the results? Not bad I think! :)

September 28, 2015

אופנוע טריאל חשמלי EM


הוא נראה רגיל. כמעט.
אין לו רגלית הילוכים (כמובן), אין קיק סטרט (כמובן), אין רדיאטור נוזל או מאוורר רועש שעושה תקלות אבל השאר נראה די רגיל. אפילו יש ידית קלאץ'!
אה...רגע, זו לא ידית קלאץ באמת. כשלוחצים עליה, המנוע פשוט עוצר ומתנתק. אם לוחצים עליה עד סופה אז מופעל המוד של ייצור חשמל על ידי המנוע לטובת טעינת המצבר (שימושי מאוד בירידות כמו בלימת מנוע).
באדיבות הבעלים שהרשה לי לעשות סיבוב על האופנוע הכל כך מסקרן הזה, עליתי עליו לסיבוב קצר של 10 דקות אתמול אחרי שהסתיימה תחרות הטריאל (אגב, הפסדתי את המקום הראשון בקט' אנדורו בנקודה אחת בלבד! כמעט!!! ).
קיבלתי הסבר קצר. פה זה ידית הגז (אלקטרונית כמובן), פה זה הברקסים (כרגיל לגמרי) ופה זה בורר המפות. 2 חזק, 1 לתנאים חלקלקים. ויש עוד בורר ליד המצבר לעוד מפות ו...ו...ו...כבר לא כל כך הקשבתי כי רק רציתי לעלות ולתת "גז". אז עליתי, נתתי גז ו...לא קרה כלום.
נו מה? כך הבעלים. שים את המפסק בצד שמאל בON!
שמתי בON, נתתי חופן גז ולמזלי המצע עליו הייתי היה חולי אחרת הוא פשוט היה מתהפך אחורה. חזק המניאק!
המצערת ארוכה ומאוד מדויקת. אין בעייה למנן "גז" בדיוק מושלם. לעשות פניות הדוקות עם כידון נעול זו משימה הרבה יותר קלה. לא צריך להשקיע שום מחשבה על המינון הכל כך בעייתי של גז וקלאץ כדי ליצור תנועה חלקה קדימה – פשוט מסובבים את המצערת למצב הרצוי והאופנוע נוסע חלק ממהירות של 0.1 קמ"ש. מעולה!
גם כל מיני תרגילים שאנחנו רגילים למשוך מצמד – להעלות סל"ד – לזרוק מצמד לא נחוצים פה בכלל. פשוט מסובבים יותר את המצערת. התגובה של המנוע החשמלי מיידית, אין פה היסוסי קרבורציה וכאלו. גם המומנט שמנוע חשמלי מספק (100% בכל סל"ד) יכול לייצר מכת כוח מיידית לחלוטין, בדיוק כמו זריקת מצמד, אולי אפילו יותר. אז לא, לא צריך מצמד באופנוע חשמלי.
זו בהחלט חווית רכיבה שונה (ומאוד כיפית) לא לשמוע מנוע. שומעים רק הצלפות שרשרת, נקישות מתלים ואחיזה. פתאום אפשר לשמוע אחיזה, לא רק להרגיש אותה, בחיי!
המהירות הסופית של האופנוע לא ממש גבוהה, אני מעריך כ50 קמ"ש אבל גם זה מספיק לשימושי טריאל.
ושאלת השאלות, טווח.
מצד אחד, המצבר מגיע ל80% טעינה אחרי 45 דקות בלבד.
מצד שני, הבעלים טוען שהוא עוד לא הצליח לרוקן יותר מ2/3 מצבר ביום רכיבה בודד.
אתמול בתחרות, אחרי 3 הקפות של כ10 מייל כל אחת עם 10 סקשנים בכל הקפה (30 סה"כ), המצבר היה עם עוד כ25-30%. מספיק די והותר ואם לא, עוצריך למנוחה של 45 דקות ויש עוד פעם כמות נכבדה של רכיבה (רק צריך להביא גנרטור קטן).
מצבר נוסף אגב (שניתן להחלפה מהירה) עולה...תחזיקו חזק, 2,500 דולר. אאוץ'.
מבחינת אחזקה, אין שמן, פלאגים, פילטר אויר, מי קירור. כלום. בסיום רכיבה רק נשאר לנקות שרשרת ולדחוף לתקע.
לטעמי מדובר בצעד גדול בכיוון הנכון. מצד אחד זה פשוט כיף לרכב בשקט, מצד שני זה פשוט כיף לא להתעסק עם מנוע בעירה פנימית מיושן, מלוכלך, מסריח ולא נציל, ומצד שלישי זה פותח אפשרויות חדשות לגמרי של רכיבה בתחום אורבני בלי שכל העולם ואחותו יזעקו לשמים...
אם הייתי קונה עכשיו טריאל? הEM בהחלט היה נחשב לאפשרות.
ברושור האופנוע:
קצת ביצועים עליו:

September 23, 2015

Low budget 24h race preparation

I have a low budget bike, right?
So if I want to race the Glen Helen 24 hours (teamed up with my wife), should I invest in expensive Trailtech stator and Baja Designs LED light? Those will run me over 500$!

I'd rather try to do it cheap I think! possible? maybe...

Sometimes I don't understand the designers and engineers - When they do have most of the components work on DC power (Starter, fan, rear LED light, signal lights) so why not to have the front light on the same single DC circuit? why to use AC separate circuit only for the headlight???

The AC coils are good for 40W which is ok for my needs. Today LED's of 36W can give more than 2,000 lumenes which is more than decent for night riding as long as it's not Baja speed.

So 1st step is to convert the AC power to DC. Easy enough, and I used full wave bridge rectifier (6.5$) and 25,000 uF 50V capacitor (12$) which is big but will give steady voltage.

Finally I choose a LED light bar which was only 36$ for a pair of lights - just in case we will crash and break one! :)
As I do not have regulator in the circuit, voltage will move up and down some. In order to work under these conditions, light should have wide voltage input range as 10-32 V as this one.

Does this 55$ setup can do the work? parts are on the way but this weekend Im going to do a test run. Results and videos will be here later on.

This is the basic circuit drawing converting AC to DC:

Rectifier and capacitor arrived and this is how it's look like:

Now waiting for the lights...

Lights arrived, I improvised the final connection and something to hold it to the bike and...YEP! beautiful DC current flow to the LED's give steady  light. I checked the voltage and it's wind from 11V in idle to 19.9V in high RPM. Remember I wrote before to have a wide range of input voltage? this is why.

Now to build some decent bracket to hold it steady and soon enough neighborhood ride in the dark. Pictures to follow.

Bracket mock up in carton

Cutting and shaping out of 1/8" 6061 Aluminum plate and fixing the lights on the bike

Street test. The pictures are laying some as I took them with my phone. The actual light is brighter and lit farther. but you can see the difference between the OEM light and the LED's.


36W LED Bar

Now I need to isolate capacitor and rectifier contacts and to pack it is some more elegant way. Saturday night desert night ride test! :)

Test results with the basic setup:
1. Rubber bands are not enough to hold the lights in place. Reinforcement to the OEM fixed light bracket is neccesary.
2. For extra cheap setup, lights are not so bad but it's far from enough for racing...

So I had to spend some extra. I've been offered a Baja Designs HID 8" race light from a friend (same one that gave me to try the RR pipe!). I went ahead and invest in Trailtech 100W stator. The stator kit is basically KTM kit which fit right in to the RR's but as the XT rectifier seat up in the front, a 2 wires extension (29" approx) should be prepared. Otherwise it's a straightforward installation with the same wires color as the KTM.

Last Saturday I went riding with the lights on to check that the brackets are OK and the lights can run without any battery drainage. Everything went fine electrically, but the lights weight was just too much on the soft front end of the Xtrainer. It was diving almost full stroke under hard braking and going downhills became vague. Not good.
Lights wise, it was everything you can expect from top of the line race lights. Very strong with great spread.

Then I decided to try another approach, and installed cheap Chinese HID H4 kit installed in the OEM reflector. After installation I left it running for half an hour to verify that the reflector won't overheat and melt. Id did got some heat build up, I believe around 60 degree Celsius which is still in the safe zone. When night fell, I went to ride in the neighborhood and sadly, light pattern was far from good. I will use this setup only in emergency of something will go wrong.

So next, as now the bike have 100W DC power, I wend back to the 7" LED bar, but built another support, this time to hold double light bar. I added a switch to alternate between only top LED bar (short distance, when riding in dust condition) to both lights when the bottom LED bar pointing farther forward. This is the final setup that we will race with. Not the greatest but hopefully enough.

September 22, 2015

Fork damping adjuster

The Beta Xtrainer comes with very simple Ollé suspension.
The fork have the spring on the right side and the damping happened on the left side but there is only rebound adjuster on the top of the fork.
In order to adjust it, the rider need to use 4mm allen key. Somehow the tool kit key is too long and won't fit between the fork cup and the handlebar, so either you need to cut down the key or you need to remove the handlebar.
That way or another, is not really comfortable...

I was looking around, trying to find a ready solution. I could find some expensive low profile allen keys but didn't like them.

So like I did with the OS front Freeride rotor - If I cannot find it, I will make it myself.

This time I used plastic 3D printing service and some free software to make the simple design needed.

Once the pieces will be ready I'll report back if they stay put and if the plastic is good enough for this purpose. Stay tune! :)

1st run failed due mostly to incorrect tolerances which lead to smaller dimension of the hex part.
In the mean time I jumped into the 3D design world, using Autodesk Fusion 360 (Free for real!!!) and got some better design. Should be in my hand soon for testing.

September 21, 2015

1st ride - English

Many ask me to compare the Beta Xtrainer to the KTM Freeride as I'm long time user and racer over the Freeride.

I know the li’l KTM since the 1st batch of the 350 to the 2nd batch (small improvements) and then moved to the 250R. All in all I have something like 300-400 Freeride hours on the clocks.  So yes, I know the bike inside out.

Before digging into technical terms, I'll give you the bottom line right now - These 2 bikes are hardly comparable.

When you know the Freeride, especially the 250R, you understand how deep it has it's roots into the Trial world. From the simple no power-valve engine to the long reach gear lever to the short suspension and steep steering angle. And it's indeed feels like Trial bike with Enduro details.
The results is tiny and ultra-light bike, very capable on super technical terrains but with some serious limitations outside of this terrain. More about that later.

When Beta decided to enter the niche, they took the other way around and started with the 300RR as a base line, reduce the total dimension by 10-15%, tune the engine down to more Trial-ish work and finish the work with simple(er), short(er) and soft(er) suspension.

You can just read the final results right here - If you would want a smallish Enduro bike the Xtrainer is the right way to go. If most of your riding is ultra technical, the Freeride will be better choice unless you are above 175cm.

So now let's dive into technical details and understand the differences.

The Freeride is just in the middle between Enduro bike and Trial bike as far as wheelbase is concerned. The XT is in between the Freeride and Enduro bike. That give the FR top score in agility but will cause head shake and general nervousness as the speed pick up.

The FR use Formula brake and clutch components out of the SX85. As a results of this super-lightweight system, is a poor braking performance. It's basically impossible to lock the front wheel even when the lever pulled all the way in to the handlebar. When racing, the brake fluid boils so often that I had to replace it on regular basis, as well as the brake pads. The XT comes with the same RR components where Brembo is responsible for the clutch while Nissin takes the brakes. I would like just a tiny bit more bite from the front but this is just to be picky. The rear is perfect with plenty of feel.

Suspension wise, the FR does not stand out for a win too much as it has only 250mm of travel with basic 43 fork and a simple shock. While the XT shows an even simpler fork, the longer travel (20mm longer) with better valving allows very smooth operation and it takes relatively big drop to shut close the suspension. Modifying the fork will be easier on the XT as it's takes only one spring (right leg) and one set of shims (left leg). Before throwing $ on suspension work, I will try to play with thicker oil, mixing 50% 10W oil (OEM specs 5W) and later all 10W if necessary.

When KTM designed the Freeride, they started with the XCW250 and then they removed the power valve, altered the piston and ported the cylinder differently for better low RPM torque and finished off with a 28mm carburetor and unique exhaust for the same reason. All are FR parts only. The results is a very smooth and linear power down low but once accelerated, the engine sign off very quickly and required up- shifting which is some conditions is plain slow and in other it just wrong, as on long hills for example.
Beta took the 300RR as a starting point which is already a 50cc advantage. They changed the porting and piston some, left the carburetor at the original size (36mm) and shaped a new exhaust. Oh, yes - they left the power valve in place!
This engine is magic once above tick over. It pulls forward at any RPM, doesn't matter what. There is no big hit anywhere in the power band, just a linear continuous pull. What I was happy to find is that a simple wind off of the power valve adjuster allows the engine to rev faster and higher, now with a small change a-la "normal" 2 stroke.

Riding in very technical area, trying to negotiate extreme obstacle in very low speed, where high throttle and clutch control required, had me disappointed me a bit.
On one side, the throttle is just too hard to turn, like it has some mechanical friction in it. Especially when comparing to the butter smooth FR throttle. It might have something to do with the original cable routing as it is force between the odometer and the headlight mask. I will try to play with it and will report back my finding.
On the other side, the clutch pull is way too hard with immediate action, not good when riding on the clutch all the time. Missing the XCW300 clutch!
The combination of the grabby clutch with the jumpy throttle and the control on extreme condition is less than easy. I lost too often grip on the rear wheel in places I easily moved with the XCW300.

The Beta holds 1 liter more fuel than the FR but with the 36mm carburetor, but I'm doubt if it will get longer range. I know IMS will be in production soon with a 9.5 liter tank!
I did like the oil injection system though. Gives you the option to quick fill in gas stations without carrying oil in the backpack. Disconnecting and removing the oil tank and pump for the ones that want to save weight and to feed premix, is easy enough.

Electric starter get full points Vs the FR unit. It's similar bandix unit but it's integrated correctly in the engine cases and hold the basic lubrication better. didn't heard single failure yet which is good when you have no pedal as a backup. Haw...yes...if you do want to have the kick-start as a backup, Beta sells kits that fit right in unlike the FR where it's not an option.

What else?
The radiators are 2 units, same as the RR. Fan is standard. Nice!
The bike comes with both head light and number plate. Nice!
The bike comes with plastic skid plate but no hand guards.
Weird enough, the bike comes to the US with all road legal harness installed, (and the horn) but no signal lights or mirror is supplied with the bike. Rear light have brake light integrated but no rear plate light. No flasher relay come with the bike. EU bikes come complete ready for registration...
Tyres are GoldenTyre FIM Enduros which I like very much but will wear out quickly from my experience.

So this is it. The modern KDX200. Super easy for novice riders but with some modifications (suspension mainly), very capable machine in the right hands.

Next stop - SoCal Trial competition with Enduro bikes sections marked out. Half a year ago I did it with XCW300 and it was great fun. With the XT it should even more fun!